Beginner to Intermediate Caresheet for Red-Tail Boas
General Overview
The first thing somebody should know about Boas, or any snake, is that they generally take a lot of your trust and loving care before they warm up to you. They are very loving creatures if given a good home and the right environment!
Red-Tail Boas require a great deal of attention, knowledge, and caring. This
website is meant to give valuable and necessary information to anybody
interested in owning a Red-Tail Boa. It covers almost every common question or
issue that beginners or intermediate keepers have troubles with.
It is important to note that the information contained in this site pertains specifically to Red-Tail Boas unless otherwise specified in the text. Additionally, though the information contained in this site has not been officially validated by a certified veterinarian, the methods we describe have been used and validated by us and many other Red-Tail Boa owners, including our friends at RedTailBoa.net, and have been deemed accurate and reliable.
If after browsing this website you still don't find the answers you're looking for, please send an email to info@redtailboafaq.com - we're happy to help!
Before You Buy (General Q&A)
What should I know before owning any snake?
You should know that snakes are not cheap. They're not toys. They're not dogs or cats. They are very fragile and the things you need to care for them can be quite expensive at times. You should also know that many breeds of snake can be extremely complicated, particularly Boa Constrictors. If you are looking for a snake that doesn't require much experience or knowledge, and you're not willing to invest much time or money, a good place to start would to be getting a Corn Snake or a Garter Snake, as most types are usually easier to care for than a Boa or Python.
Please assure that you always have plenty of money and time to care for these
beautiful creatures before you consider purchasing and caring for one. If you
are interested in caring for one, they can be the most lovable, gentle
creatures in the world, and your love for them can get to be uncharted! They
are truly unique and beautiful, but you must treat them with care and ALWAYS
make sure you are prepared.
Why should I get a Red-Tail Boa?
Red-Tail Boas are widely considered one of the most tame, friendly and manageable snakes on the market. If properly cared for, any Red-Tail Boa will very rarely strike or even become defensive, unless you give them a reason to. Most of the time, they will never feel an urge to attack or become defensive if they are being cared for properly. On top of all of that, they are among the most beautiful and gentle snakes you'll ever encounter.
Why do they call it a "Red-Tail" Boa?
The name "Red-Tail Boa" is a loosely used term to describe the genus/specie Boa Constrictor. Most localities of Red-Tail Boa have a bright red tail compared to the rest of their body, and it will depend on which specie, subspecie and locality they are. Some Boa Constrictors have little or no red on their tails, but they are still loosely called "Red-Tail Boas".
Red-Tail Boa
Why do snakes flick their tongues all the time?
Snakes use their tongues to both smell, and determine what is in their vicinity. Their sense of smell is both their strongest and the sense they rely the most on for basic survival skills. It's also useful in determining an appetising meal from an unappetising one, and determining whether something is even food or not.
Tongue Flick
How big do Red-Tail Boas get?
Depending on what type of Red-Tail Boa you have, they can reach anywhere from
4-12 feet in length, as adults. This also depends on the subspecie and genetics
of your Red-Tail Boa. It's very rare for a Red-Tail Boa to reach 12 feet. A
maximum length of 7 to 10 feet is more common.
How fast do Red-Tail Boas grow?
Depending on the genetics of the snake, it's normal for a Red-Tail Boa to grow 2
feet per year. When they are born, they are usually 15-18 inches in length
(depending on what subspecies it is), and they will grow on an average of about
2 inches per month. Again, this is all dependant on their genes and scientific
classification.
How long do Red-Tail Boas live?
In the wild, it's completely random as how long they live. They could be
snatched up by a predator the second they are born, or they could live to be 20
years old.
In captivity, a good, average lifespan for a Red-Tail Boa that dies from natural
causes, is anywhere from 15-25 years. On rare occasions they will top the 30
year mark. It all depends on how well the snake is cared for. 25 years is
definitely reasonable if the animal is properly cared for and remains healthy
throughout it's life.
What's the difference between a Python and a Boa?
They both exist in varying parts of the world. They have similar habitats, but
differing care should be practiced on each. This also varies between what TYPE
of Python or Boa you have. Again, this caresheet is for Red-Tail Boas, or the
classification of Boa Constrictor, only.
Red-Tail Boas come from South America, Central America, and the islands
surrounding each. All types of Boa give live birth (except one type of boa),
where as pythons will generally lay eggs.
How do I tell if a Boa is a male or female?
There's really no way to tell by looking. Most people can guess by looking at
the tails, but a lot of the time it's not accurate at all unless you're looking
at an adult. The best way to tell is to have a vet probe the snake. There are
also forms of "popping" that can be used, but I wouldn't condone, nor
recommend popping, even by a professional.
Do Red-Tail Boas need some type of UV light to survive?
No. Unlike many reptiles, they do not need any type of UV light to obtain
essential vitamins. They are naturally burrowers and ground dwellers, and will
rarely see the sun in the wild. They do, however, need some type of light and
dark cycle in captivity, to keep their "biological" clock in tune.
How do snakes defecate?
Snakes have a small hole located about 10-25% up their body from the end of
their tail. This is also known as a "vent". They also urinate (or
produce urates) out of this same vent. Their sexual organs are also located in
the same place.
Do snakes have ears?
No, they do not have EXTERNAL ears, so they cannot hear every sound a human can.
They have what remains of an inner ear, so they hear only by vibrations. You
could scream as loud as you could, or even play very loud music and all they
would pick up would be the vibrations sent out by the sound. Loud TVs, vacuums,
or anything loud that doesn't produce vibrations won't affect a snake at all.
However, people like to tap on glass to try to get their attention. DON'T do
that to your snake. It's really annoying and really stressful for them, and it
makes them feel like they are in danger. If they feel in danger in their home,
they certainly won't like it when you try to take them out, and you might get
bit by an angry snake!
What's the difference between a Red-Tail Boa, a Rainbow
Boa, and a Tree Boa?
They are just different species of Boa that require different kinds of care.
Keep in mind that a tree, sand, rainbow, or any other type of Boa is not
classified as a BOA CONSTRICTOR. All types of Boa are within the same genus,
but the specie type between other types of Boa are completely different than
that of a Red-Tail Boa (Boa Constrictor). They each have specific needs that
aren't always mentioned in Red-Tail Boa's caresheet that should be adhered to.
If you're thinking of buying any type of Boa besides a Red-Tail boa, consult the
appropriate caresheet(s).
How many different types of Red-Tail Boa are there?
Just the scientific class (Genus/Specie) Boa/Constrictor has many different
subspecies and localities within them that will determine what characteristics
the Boa carries.
The most common difference is the subspecie the Boa is classified in. There are
many subspecies within the Boa Constrictor classification, such as Boa
Constrictor Imperator (BCI), Boa Constrictor Constrictor (BCC), Boa Constrictor
Longicauda (BCL). Within the subspecies exists several localities. A Boa from
Suriname and a Boa from Venezuela could both be classified as a BCC, but still
look very different. For more information on this, consult sites such as
www.riobravoreptiles.com or www.boa-constrictors.com, if you are interested.
Why do snakes bite?
Snakes will only bite or get aggressive if they feel that they are in danger, are irritated by something or someone bothering them, or if they mistake something for food. Some breeds of snake will naturally be aggressive, but most breeds of captive kept Red-Tail Boa are not known to be particularly aggressive.
Housing, Substrate, Heating and Humidity
What kind of tank should a Red-Tail Boa be kept in?
A Red-Tail Boa should be kept in any type of tank that will provide them
comfort, and the necessary elements (heat, humidity... etc.) to staying healthy
and happy. It should always be big enough to allow the snake to sit on either
end comfortably. Any pre-made or custom enclosure that is closed at all times,
and will allow sufficient light is okay.
What size tank should I use?
For a baby Red-Tail Boa, a 20Long (20 gallons, roughly
24"x10"x12") will do just fine. It's easier to keep Red-Tail Boas
in smaller enclosures while they are younger to assure proper heating and hot
spots for such a small snake. A good rule of thumb to use is to keep the length
of the tank about the same length as the snake, so they can stretch from one
side to the other without any problems. Once the Red-Tail Boa reaches about 3
feet, it's a good idea to move it into something around a 40-gallon tank, or a
4-foot Boaphile cage/tank would work. Once the Boa is around 4 or 5 feet, it's a
good idea to move it into a "breeder" size tank, which is something
about 6 feet long, 2 feet deep and 2 feet tall.
6-foot "Boaphile" tank
You should assure that you will have enough space in your house for your Boa
throughout it's entire life.
What should I put in the tank?
Every Red-Tail Boa should have a water dish, regularly supplied with fresh
water, that is big enough for them to coil their entire body into. They should
also have one hide on each side (cool and warm) and at least one item to crawl
up and perch on, for exercise sake.
Complete tank
What can I use for hides?
You can use pretty much whatever you want, and whatever your Red-Tail Boa will
fit into. I've seen anything from a pet store used (even fish aquarium stuff),
cardboard boxes, toilet paper roll tubes... pretty much anything, as long as
you're sure it's free of chemicals or other harmful materials. Sometimes the
snake will just hide in the substrate, and this is fine.
Box/Tube Hide
You should assure something in your tank is a little rigid or rock-like to help
the Red-Tail Boa shed. Usually reptile water dishes or hides will be just fine.
However, don't use anything that is really rough or sharp. Lots of fish/aquarium
equipment is like that. Your snake won't like it and he/she could get cut while
climbing on it.
What should I use for a floor?
The better term for this is "substrate", if you're unfamiliar with snakes. Any
of the following are okay to use: Newspaper, Aspen shavings, Cypress Mulch,
Paper Towels, Astroturf. Just as a quick warning; DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE
BARK!!! These two woods have a certain chemical in them that is harmful to a
snake's respiratory system and will eventually kill them! If you are using
cypress or aspen, spread it to about 1 inch in thickness across the tank, and
set your under-tank heater (UTH) to around "medium". Please, also do not use
sand, dirt, or any other substrate you might think of. Choose from one of the
appropriate substrates of Newspaper, Aspen, Cypress, Paper Towels or Astroturf.
I would personally recommend newspaper as it's usually free in the mail, makes
for very easy cleanup, and won't house little bugs called "mites" that are very
bad for your snake.
How should I set the tank up?
Every snake needs to thermo regulate (control their body temperature manually),
and every kind of Boa ABSOLUTELY needs heat in order for it to digest food...
otherwise, the snake will die from not eating or from undigested food becoming
toxic. Every snake should be able to set their own body temperature, as they are
cold-blooded, and their body temperature is the same as the temperature around
them. For a Red-Tail Boa, you should make one end of the tank a warm side, and
one end a cool side. The easiest way to do this is to find something that will
heat the warm side, and the cool side shouldn't need additional heating.
For heating, you should NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK! If you are using one, remove it
from the tank immediately. The reason behind this is heat rocks have imbalanced
and very poor heating distribution. On parts of the rock it could be 70F while
on another part it could be 130F. IF YOU USE A HEAT ROCK YOU WILL BURN AND
POSSIBLY KILL YOUR SNAKE. Please, do not use one.
One last tidbit before we get into what you need to heat your tank: ALWAYS make
sure you test the snake's environment thoroughly before you place him/her in
there! This is vital! You do not want to stress your Boa out as much as it
already will be from the move.
Note: If you have a tank that is already set up with proper, built-in heat, you
can disregard the rest of this question.
For proper heating, you should purchase each of the following:
- One heat lamp rated for 100 to 250 watts
- One Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) that is appropriately sized (100W for small
tanks, on up to 250W for larger tanks) -OR- One 60W Reptile light bulb. A CHE is
recommended as some Boas don't like much light on them.
- One Under-Tank Heater (UTH) that is appropriately sized for your tank (should
take up about 15% of the surface area)
- Two dimmers or rheostats (or a thermostat)
- Two digital, reptile thermometers (if you have a thermostat you don't need
these, although they are good to have)
- One Hygrometer (humidity monitor)
OPTIONAL
- One low-wattage light bulb (15W or less)
Believe it when it's said, ALL of these are necessary to properly monitor your
Red-Tail Boa's environment.
You should stick the Under-Tank Heater to the bottom of the tank. Make sure you
have the tank elevated by wood blocks, bricks, or other useful items around the
house. It should have at least an inch of clearance underneath to allow for
proper airflow, and so you don't burn your snake.
Take the CHE and put it into the heat lamp. Seems kind of obvious but some
people miss it!
Plug the two dimmers/rheostats into the wall but don't turn them on yet. Use the
plug from the UTH and the plug from the CHE and plug them each into their own
separate dimmers/rheostats. Labeling them would be a good idea. This way you can
control the temperatures for each and balance the environment properly. Put the
CHE above the same place on the tank as the UTH is stuck to, so they are both
heating the same side. You should not have to heat the cool side if you have
proper airflow. Now you can turn these on. An easy place to start is to set them
both on "low", and you should keep the dimmer for the UTH on "low" at all times,
if you are using newspaper or paper towels. A UTH setting of "medium" with Aspen
or Cypress Mulch is fine.
Using the digital thermometers and dimmers/rheostats, you should aim for a
temperature on the warm side (with the heating equipment) of 86-88F (88-90 if
you have a BCC), and try to get the cool side at 77-80F. Place the temperature
measuring component of the thermometer about 1 inch from the top of the
substrate, or 1 inch from the ground your Red-Tail Boa will be resting on. If
the temperatures are too low, only raise the dimmer that has the CHE (heat lamp)
plugged into it. Once you get these set, your temperature gradient is great!
Make sure it can hold that for at least 24 hours. A nighttime drop of 4-6
degrees is fine, and actually encouraged, just make sure it recovers the next
morning.
If you have a thermostat, it's basically like a thermometer and a dimmer put
together. You simply set the temperature it should turn on or off at, and place
the probe where you want to measure temperature. It's the same thing as a
dimmer/thermometer combination, except everything is automated.
The last thing you need to worry about is humidity. You should assure that it is
at about 55-60% at all times. The best place to put your hygrometer is an inch
above the substrate, in the middle of the tank. If you are using a
"Boaphile" cage/tank, or other type of completely enclosed tank, this
should take care of itself.
If you are using a screen-top tank, then you might need a little extra humidity
holding tricks to get the job done. If you are nowhere near that mark (if you
are at 25-30%) try using a clean towel and putting it over about 75% of the
screen, leaving only spaces where the lamp is, and a small bit of space on the
opposite end, to complete a good air-flow. Every morning, get the towel damp
with fresh water and always leave it covered. Your humidity should raise to
about 70% once you put it on there, then keep around 55% constantly throughout
the day.
Make sure you can hold both temperatures and humidity for at least 48 hours
before you put your Red-Tail Boa in the tank. If you've got it, good job! Your
tank is ready for the snake!
Do I need to keep a light on at all times?
No, you don't. In fact, you SHOULD run a day/night cycle of 12/12 (12 light
hours, 12 dark hours), or if you want to get more accurate, 15/9 during the
summer, 10/14 for the winter. You should DEFINITELY run a day/night cycle.
Otherwise your Red-Tail Boa is going to get very stressed and possibly sick
because of a lack of realistic cycling.
How can I create a day/night cycle?
Any way you think is necessary. Ambient light from outside is fine if you can
get direct light from a window. Many people leave their bedroom lights on or
just have a small lamp that they keep on. If you purchased a 15W reptile UV
light, you can mount that in the tank and it won't raise your temperatures more
than 1 degree.
Should I drop the temperatures at night?
Yes, you should. The reason why is because your Red-Tail Boa is used to
day/night cycles, and having nighttime means that it gets cooler. This also
forces your snake to thermo regulate and remain active. Otherwise your snake
will be out of shape and it could potentially shorten it's lifespan.
I heard that a snake will only grow if the tank is big enough. Is this true?
No, it's not. A snake will not grow according to it's surroundings. It will grow
just like any human, dog, cat, spider.. whatever. If you feed it and take care
of it appropriately, it will grow.
How should I introduce my Red-Tail Boa to his/her new home?
You should let the snake explore as it wants to. If you get the snake in a bag
or some kind of container, just open the container and set it inside the tank
somewhere. After this, leave it completely alone for at least 72 hours. The
snake should learn that this is a safe environment, and this is where it should
be living for the next long period of it's life. Do not disturb it if you want
to have a smooth start.
Can I house two snakes in the same enclosure?
You should NOT house two snakes in the same enclosure. There are multiple
reasons why and it's imperative to their health that you assure your snakes are
separated at all times.
For one, records are impossible to track accurately if you can't keep track of
who just shed, who needs to eat, who defecated and when... etc. Things like this
become very hard to track with two snakes living together.
Another is submission and domination for popular hide spots. Many people don't
realize that sheer stress can kill a snake. With two or more snakes battling for
good position or popular hide spots, at least one of them will most likely get
stressed out. The last thing you want is a stressed out reptile, because as far
as they are concerned, they cannot do anything about it. STRESS WILL KILL A
SNAKE. Please, do not risk it.
Finally, the most important reason is sickness. If one snake is sick, they all
get sick. One trip to the vet is bad enough. Two or three separate trips to the
vet, two or three doses of medication every time needed, and two or three
stressed, sick snakes is enough to make even the most experienced keepers worry
about their snakes' lives.
In rare occasions, Boas and other breed of snake kept in the same enclosure have
killed one or each other. Often times if a male and female Boa are housed
together, they will breed before the female is ready. It could kill or severely
deform the female for the rest of her life!
Please, just spend the extra dollars (which you should have handy, if you have
any type of snake), and get another setup for another snake.
Where should I put the tank?
This doesn't really matter. I find it's a bit harder to put tanks on the floor
as it gets cooler and can sometimes be tough to maintain temperatures. However,
nighttime temperature drops are much easier to do when your house temperature
drops a few degrees at night. If the tank is elevated it might be a little
harder, but it's still certainly possible.
Feeding
What should I feed my boa?
Feeding ONE appropriately sized RAT (not mouse) every feeding period is the
smartest way to raise your boa. For Boas that are 1 year and younger, feed them
once per week. For Boas that are 1-2 years, every 10 days is appropriate. Boas
that are over 2 years, every 14 days is sufficient. If you feed too much or too
little, you may cause irreversible damage to your boa and literally take years
off its lifespan.
What's the difference between a RAT and a MOUSE?
The difference is that rats are generally bigger, and rats are far more
nutritious. In many circumstances, Boas on mice will either grow very slowly, or
not grow at all. Many pet stores or breeders will feed mice so the Boas do not
get as big before being sold. Boas should get appropriately sized rats during
their appropriate feeding times, depending on their age. There is a very big
difference between the two.
You can usually tell the difference between the two at smaller sizes, visually,
as mice are generally smaller in relation to lifespan, and have a more pointy
nose. Rats usually have a pretty rounded head and are generally bigger. Any
supplier should know the difference, otherwise they shouldn't be supplying,
right?
How do I know what an "appropriately sized" food item is?
Take a look at your snake. Measure or estimate the fattest part of their body
and remember that measurement. If you're picking out rats by hand, get one that
is about the same size in girth, so the snake's body doesn't undergo too much
stress from trying to digest something bigger than it is. If you can fit your
hand around the rat at the same measurement that you could your snake, then you
should be fine.
If you do not have the luxury of picking out by hand, remember what size your
snake is on. Rats are classified accordingly (from smallest to largest): Pinkie,
Fuzzie, Pups, Weaned, Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large (or Jumbo), XXL, and
XXXL. Each size increase is about 1-2 inches in length, and incrementally
increasing in weight (from 10 grams up to 125 gram increases per size). An easy
way to tell the smaller ones apart is remembering that Pinkies do not have fur
yet, are about the size of a baby carrot, and are usually 1-4 days old. Fuzzies
have little to sufficient fur and are usually 10 to 13 days old. You will just
need to remember the sizes and see pictures for anything bigger. If you have a
baby snake, a good way to remember is that they will only need a pinkie rat
maybe once or twice. They will move up to fuzzies and be on them for a couple of
months. After that it varies, depending on the Boa. You should increase the size
of rat as your Boa grows, and remembering the size increases and feeding
appropriately sized items is VERY important.
Should I feed outside of my tank?
It's up to you. If you have some type of wood chip or other object in the tank
that can be ingested while eating, it's a good idea to feed in a separate bin.
If the Boa ingests something it can't digest, it'll cause some pretty big
problems and might lead to a very serious infection.
Otherwise, there's no problem with feeding in the tank if there are no loose
objects that could potentially be swallowed.
Can I feed more than one rat at a time?
You shouldn't. It's easier for the snake to digest only one prey item at a time.
If you have no other option you can do it, but it's not recommended.
How can I switch my Boa from mice to rats?
Buy 3 mice and 3 rats and store them in the same bag in the freezer (yes, they
should be frozen). After storing them for some time, feed one mouse to the Boa
(thawed first... see the next section for details). It should have exchanged
scents with the rats inside the bag, so it might taste or smell a little
different to him/her. The next week, try feeding a rat that has been stored with
the mice. The scent of the mouse should fool your Boa into thinking it's the
same thing it ate last time, but since it's a RAT this time, instead of a mouse,
it's much more nutritious, and you've fooled him/her for their own good! Feed
the remaining rats and dispose of the mice when all of them are gone. Your Boa
should readily accept rats from now on. Consult the section below for
information on feeding frozen/thawed prey.
Feeding Pre-killed prey
I've heard that Boas need to be fed living prey only. Is
this true?
NO. Absolutely not. In fact, feeding prey that is prekilled is both safer and
much more healthy for the Boa. There are endless stories about Boas being bit by
the prey (yes, it does happen more often than it should), and these Boas will
develop infections and get parasites and all sorts of life-threatening problems.
If you ever see a Boa with an unnatural lump on it, that's usually an infection
from getting bit by a mouse or rat.
Rat bite infection
If it's not treated immediately, it winds up being fatal in almost every case.
Isn't it more natural to feed live prey?
No. In the wild, a snake will take prey any way they can get it, whether it be living or already dead. However, the wild and captivity are not the same thing by any stretch of the imagination, and in no way should the wild environment be considered when housing a snake in captivity. In the wild, a snake is subject to disease, starvation, predators, natural disasters, and many other factors that put a snake's life in jeopardy. A captive snake lacks survival skills, a strong enough immune system, and food storage capacity to survive in an environment that does not suit their needs, such as the wild. Feeding a snake live because it's the way they eat in the wild is also putting your snake's life in jeopardy.
If you want to be a responsible keeper, shelter your snake from any type of disease, injury or other detrimental factors that may occur when feeding live prey. Please feed pre-killed, and preferrably frozen/thawed prey to avoid all serious health risks.
I don't believe the stories about Boas dying from live prey.
It might sound a little outlandish, but the actual truth is that feeding live
prey is endangering your Boa's life. No matter what precautions you take, the
odds of your Boa dying from live prey is at least 100 times more likely than
them dying from pre-killed or frozen and thawed prey. Please do not feed live
prey to your Boa. It is very harmful. If you don't believe us, click here (warning: not for weak stomachs).
Getting bit doesn't sound very likely. Why else shouldn't I feed live prey?
Mice and Rats often carry internal parasites that are lethal to snakes if not
killed properly. It's very common for a young Boa to die from parasites just
because the owner was reckless and careless enough to not take all precautions
before feeding. Young Boas in captivity do not have the immune system to battle
internal parasites, and it usually results in severe sickness or death. Prey
should ALWAYS be killed and frozen (if possible) before being offered. Of
course, frozen prey should also be thawed before being offered, and is the best
method to use.
How do I kill the rat before offering it to my snake?
If you HAVE to buy live rats and kill them, the best way is to put them in a
pillowcase and whack them against a wall. It sounds brutal, but a quick smack is
much more humane than having it be constricted of all air and being unable to
breath, as a snake must constrict its prey before trying to eat. If you have
access to Carbon Dioxide, you can put the rat into a chamber filled with CO2 and
it will die simply by falling asleep first, then dying from lack of oxygen. If
you have access to a freezer, you should freeze the prey for at least 7 days to
assure that all internal parasites are killed before it's offered to your snake.
How do I thaw a frozen rat?
It's a pretty simple process. However, don't try to take shortcuts, it could
also harm your snake. DO NOT thaw in the microwave. It causes for severe
imbalance of heat distribution to the rat and could kill your snake. Even though
it might feel slightly warm, parts of the rat inside could be over 300 degrees
and you wouldn't even know it.
The best way to do it is to pull the rat out of your freezer, place it in a
Ziploc bag and submerge it in warm (not piping hot) water. You can measure the
water temperature with your hand. If it's too hot to submerge your hand in it,
it's too hot for thawing. It might make the rat's stomach explode in the water
and it's a big nasty mess!
You should leave the rat submerged in the water for about 15-30 minutes
(depending on what size it is) to assure it's insides are also thawed
thoroughly. Once it's done thawing, take the bag out of the water but DON'T OPEN
THE BAG YET! This is a pretty good trick for stubborn feeders.
Take the bag with the rat inside it, some paper towels, and some tongs to the
Boa's tank. Open the door or lid to your Boa's home, and get its attention
however you feel necessary. Don't let it smell you too much or it might bite
your hand, thinking it's food. From there, take the rat out of the bag and roll
it dry on the paper towels. It's okay if the rat is sopping wet after taking it
out of the bag, just dry it off with some paper towels and it'll be fine. The
bag was there to keep the scent in (yes, it stinks), rather than keeping it dry.
Once the scent is released, the snake will be alerted and know that food is on
its way. Once the rat is dry, take it by the tail, using the tongs, and lower
it into the tank. Let the rat hover above the Boa's head for as long as it
takes. You should see the Boa smelling it with its tongue, and their body
slightly moving. Incase you were wondering, this is the Boa moving into a
striking position. Be patient and continue dangling the rat. The Boa should
snatch the rat right from the tongs! It is a bit scary at first, but this is the
way things should be done, and this is what will get you the best feeding
results. Besides, it's nothing more than a quick jump... nothing to get worried
over!
My Boa didn't snatch the food from the tongs... what's
wrong?
Boas can be tough to feed sometimes. A lot of the time they don't feel secure
enough to eat with someone watching, mostly because they won't know if you're a
predator or a friendly being. When they are eating, they have no other form of
defense, so they can get scared to eat with someone watching. If this happens,
simply set the rat down in an enclosed area (offering it to a Boa while he/she
is their hide is a good idea) and leave your Boa alone for a few hours. DON'T
PEEK! If you peek at them while they're trying to eat, they might stop and it
might scare them too much to eat the rat. You can leave the rat in there up to
12 hours if you want. If they don't take it after that, dispose of the rat and
try next week.
Can I re-freeze thawed prey?
It's up to you. There's usually no harm in re-freezing ONCE, but after that I
wouldn't recommend re-freezing and attempting to feed it to your snake. Most
will actually refuse to re-freeze previously thawed prey, as they might find it
to be a little gross to re-offer food.
My Boa will not eat pre-killed prey!
Nonsense! Every Boa will eat pre-killed prey, unless you have a Dumeril's Boa or
Sand Boa, which can be problematic. Both are a very uncommon breed of Boa, so
it's pretty unlikely that you have either of those if you're not sure what kind
yours is. Keep trying with the pre-killed prey. No matter if it's dead or alive,
a snake usually doesn't care. Food is food, and they'll take it any way they can
get it. Just make sure the rat has a strong rat-like scent and keep trying!
Is it okay if my Boa misses a feeding?
Yes, it's fine. It shouldn't happen often, but they should be okay if one is
missed occasionally due to shedding or sickness. Still, try to keep them on an
appropriate schedule for their age.
I swear, I've tried everything and he/she STILL won't eat!
If your Boa hasn't eaten for more than 3 weeks, take them to a reptile or exotic
pet vet, and they should be able to figure out what is going on.
Also, make sure you're not stressing him/her out too much! Did you try feeding
inside a closed box? Remember, a Boa won't eat if it's scared. While eating, a
Boa has no other form of defense, so they need to be reassured of their safety
before they start.
What else can I try to get my snake to eat?
If you've already tried feeding inside a box and releasing lots of scent before the rat gets into the tank (which should work), you may need to try a few more things to get a feeding response from the snake.
Some snakes need to feel or hear vibration before they understand that food is in their tank. Try dragging the rat's body along the substrate and passing by the snake a few times, and see if you get a response. You can also try stroking the side of the snake's body and making more passes at their face to see if they have any response.
If they still refuse to eat, you can try one more thing.
Try poking a hole in the rat to release blood, or even better, split the rat's skull with a knife and "brain" the rat. Blood and guts are like candy to a snake. They will rarely refuse a brained rat, or anything with feces or blood on it. Though it sounds a little gross, this is a great way to initiate a feeding response in any snake.
ASSURE that you are feeding in some place where they feel safe, and always try to feed in a dark, enclosed space, first. A snake should take a rat if they recognize the scent. Try to keep as much rat scent as possible while feeding.
Shedding
How do snakes shed?
Once they have produced enough skin for the old skin to come off, the old skin begins to die. This is where humidity in the tank is absolutely critical. In order to get a proper shed, the snake needs to get water underneath the dead skin, so it all comes off in one big piece.
How do I know my Boa is going to shed?
You should see the Boa's eyes turn a milky white or a milky blue. This is when
they are referred to as "in the blue". You shouldn't disturb them during this
time, as they can't see much of anything and they tend to get defensive. They
will get a little bit stressed during this time, so leaving them alone is the
best idea.
After they complete the "blue" phase, their eyes will return to normal and seem
fine. However, they still HAVEN'T shed. In 2-7 days they will complete the shed.
It's okay to handle them during this time, but feeding isn't such a good idea.
Be patient, they will shed.
Feeding right after a shed is a good idea, if you skipped a feeding because of
it. They usually work up an appetite after all of that work. Feeding during the
shed cycle isn't a good idea, and it's alright if your Boa misses a feeding
because of a shed cycle. Once the shed is complete, try feeding. They should be
pretty quick to take it.
What else can I do ensure a good shed?
You should make sure the tank is holding humidity, most importantly. If your
humidity is above 60% during shed, then you should be fine. Some people like
raising it to 70%, which is also helpful. Also, make sure your Boa has something
even a little rigid to rub up against. Newspaper should be fine, but you might
need something almost rock-like to rub up against. Most reptile hides will have
this texture unless you are using boxes.
Another thing people will do to help their snake out is to spray down the tank
(or mist) with a spray bottle or something similar. Your Boa might get a little
scared from the water, but they really like it as it helps them shed and makes
their skin feel very good and moist. Don't over spray though. A few sprays on
the tank in the morning should do the trick.
A tip that I like to tell people to assist with shedding is to soak your Boa in
tepid water. On the third day after the Boa is out of "blue", soak it for about
30 minutes in ROOM TEMPERATURE water. The water SHOULD NOT be warm to the touch.
If you need to measure it's temperature, it should be no warmer than 80F. Warm
water to a human is around 95F.. THIS IS TOO HOT!
Boa Soaking
While soaking, use a Rubbermaid tub as the bathtub doesn't work well at all for
young Boas. When filling up the Rubbermaid tub, only put about a half-inch of
water in there. The Boa should not have to swim! It should be able to sit in the
water without puffing up to stay afloat. A half-inch of water for younger Boas
is a good place to start.
After the soak, your Boa should shed the night of, or the day after the soaking.
How do I know if the shed was successful?
You should see a big piece of skin in your Boa's tank, and it's colors should be
VERY bright.
Same Boa, before and after shed
The first thing you should check for on full piece of shedded skin is to assure
that the snake's eyecaps came off. Look at the part of the skin where the head
is, and make sure you can see both pieces of skin intact where his/her eyes
should have been.
Shedding Process
If the shed is in one piece and the eyecaps came off with the shed, then it was
successful!
HELP! My Boa didn't shed in one complete piece!
This can happen from time to time. Assure that you were holding at least 60%
humidity during the shed. Did you spray the tank down during the shedding cycle?
Did you soak on the third day after your Boa is out of the blue?
If you didn't try all of the above, then you should try for it next time.
For the time being, you should soak the Boa and see if you can get the rest of
the skin off. Soak the Boa (as instructed above) for anywhere up to an hour and
see if the skin gets any looser. If you soak for more than 20 minutes at a time,
make sure to change out the water every so often to keep it somewhat warm. Try
that for the first day. If all of the skin comes off, great. If it doesn't, try
soaking again the next day, and after you take the Boa out of the water, let it
towel dry. You can gently rub the boa to see if you can get the skin off.
Sometimes you can make a hole for it to crawl through. Put a slight amount of
pressure on the Boa and it should help get the skin off.
If this STILL doesn't work after a few days, then you might have a more severe
problem. Take your Boa to a local exotic pet or reptile vet, and have him/her
checked out.
What should I do if the eyecaps didn't come off during the shed?
Raise the humidity and give it a few days. If it still doesn't work, try using a Q-tip with water or a dab of mineral oil, and try gently rubbing it off. It should come off without any troubles.
Handling
How often can I handle my Boa?
I've seen people who handle their Boas every day without much problem. You'll
want to handle it at least once per week to assure that it still recognizes you
and doesn't get aggressive.
When shouldn't I handle my Boa?
You should leave your Boa alone during shed, and after feeding. When you feed,
wait at least 48 hours so the Boa can digest it's food. If you want to be sure,
run your finger down the Boa's belly and see if you can feel anything solid. If
you can, it means he's still got food in there, so you should leave him alone.
If everything is pretty mushy, then he should be fine to come out.
How do I handle my Boa? Do I need to hold on to them to make
sure they don't fall?
Not usually. You should let the Boa explore at its own will. Instead of you
HOLDING the Boa, let it hold on to you. Boas constrict, and they have amazing
power and muscle mass within their body to hold on to things tightly. The only
time I've ever seen an issue with that is if the Boa is sick or if it's a
newborn and hasn't quite developed enough muscle to be stable.
Handling a Boa
Support most of the Boa's body with your hands or arms. Whenever they feel
something near them that they can grab onto, they will wrap their body around
it. You don't need to hold on to your Boa to make sure they won't fall, just
make sure you are supporting it and they will do the rest!
You should also refrain from sharp movements as it could scare the Boa. Be
gentle and move slowly. If they start to smell your face with their tongue,
don't get freaked out! This is just them trying to get to know you better.
Basic Maintenance
How often should I clean my tank?
You should take everything out of your tank and scrub it clean AT LEAST once a
month. You should scrub and clean out it's water bowl once per day, as bacteria
can build up in there very quickly.
How often should I change the substrate?
Every time your Boa defecates, or at least once per month. When the Boa
defecates, I would recommend taking everything out and replacing it, even if you
don't think any poop got on some spots of it.
Does my Boa need a bath?
Sure, if you want. Usually a Boa shouldn't stink because their skin is
waterproof and not many things will stay on their skin, including blood from
other animals. Soaking is a good idea to help with shedding and to encourage
them to defecate often.
Health Issues
What should I check for when picking out a new Boa?
You should check for any noticeable injuries or any signs of being underfed or
neglected. If you're buying from a pet store, check that everything in the tank
is properly and neatly kept. Most of the time, snakes in bad environments in pet
stores are often unhealthy and won't last for more than a month or two in the
care of a novice.
Make sure the Boa is healthy and is being kept in good conditions before buying.
Quizzing the keepers and assuring they know how to care for the Boa is also a
good idea.
If buying from a breeder, make sure you know others that have good
recommendations toward them, and also assure that you can have access to the
most recent pictures of the Boa you are interested in.
Make note of the last time they ate, shed and what they ate. If the pet store or
breeder has a sheet of records that show all of the Boa's activities, obtain
that if at all possible.
Why should I buy directly from a breeder and not a pet
store?
Generally, breeders of Boas are much more concerned about the health of baby
Boas compared to pet stores. In pet stores, the turnaround rate on a Boa is low
since they usually buy from a breeder and resell the snake to a customer. They
don't have much concern for the health of the Boa and usually won't know how to
properly care for one. If buying from a pet store, please assure that they are
knowledgeable with reptiles, and that the snakes are being kept in top-notch
conditions.
What tests can I perform to assure my new Boa is healthy?
The first thing you should do is locate a good reptile or exotic animal vet. You
should have them take a fecal sample (bring in some fecal matter from the Boa as
soon as you have it), to check for parasites and other harmful viruses.
How important is it to find a good reptile vet?
It's VERY important. Sometimes Boas take special care to keep healthy, and
sometimes, alive. Baby Boas in particular are prone to parasites or sickness in
their first year of life much more so than in the latter years of their life.
Making sure you have access to a good reptile vet is extremely important at all
times.
My Boa is constantly regurgitating his food. What is going
on!?
This could be caused by a number of things. The reason why a Boa regurgitates
its food is because it was unable to digest it.
The first and most common reason is that your Boa does not have proper heating
in its tank. You'll want to assure that the Boa has some form of belly heat in
the tank, by way of an under-tank heater or some type of heat tape that heats
the ground instead of the air. Also make sure that this heating element is not
too hot. A good idea is to probe the GROUND (not the air) with a digital
thermometer, over the area with the ground heating element. You should aim for a
ground temperature of no higher than 95, and no lower than 85. The air
temperature should be at 86-88 on the warm side, and 77-80 on the cool side. Use
the dimmers!
Another reason for regurgitation is possible presence of a parasite, virus, or
some type of blockage in the Boas stomach. Take a fecal sample to the vet (or if
you don't have a sample, take the Boa) and have him/her checked out for worms.
If at all possible, also have X-rays done and see if you can figure out what the
problem is.
Your vet should be able to clear everything up if they are knowledgeable with
snakes.
My Boa is getting kind of skinny, even though I feed him
regularly. What's going on?
Again, your Boa might have a parasite, and this is a pretty good indicator that
it might. Take it to the vet and see what they can do.
Also, if you are feeding mice, switch your Boa over to RATS. They are much more
nutritious and will help your Boa grow and stay healthy.
My Boa looks really weak! He doesn't move around much and
can't hold on to my hand very well when I handle him. What is going on!?
This is a sign of fatigue or stress. If you have an odd day/night lighting
cycle, something that is bothering the Boa, bad heating... anything you can
think of that is improper, GET IT FIXED.
If you can't figure out why and your Boa has been eating regularly, take it to
your reptile vet to get checked out.
My Boa looks a little dehydrated. How can I help?
You should assure your humidity is at the proper percentage. 55-60% is ideal. If
it's anything lower and you can't get it up at all, consult the section of this
caresheet regarding humidity tips.
If your humidity has been fine and never drops below what it should, your Boa
might have a parasite. Consult your reptile vet and get a fecal sample done to
check for worms.
My Boa hasn't defecated in a long time! How long does it
usually take, and when should I be concerned?
It usually takes about 1-3 weeks. You should check to make sure you Boa is
defecating at least every 3 feedings. If they aren't, try soaking the Boa and
assure that their water is always cool and fresh. They might also have some sort
of blockage.
Hold off feeding after 3 feeds if your Boa hasn't done its business. If it does
not go for more than 6 weeks, consult your vet and have an examination done.
There are little bugs all over my Boa and all over the
tank. What are they and how can I get rid of them?
These are mites. They are very bad and could kill your snake.
Mites are a parasite. They suck your Boas blood and can transmit diseases if not
treated immediately. They also stress out the snake, and STRESS CAN KILL A
SNAKE.
If you are using some type of wood chip or loose bedding, throw it out. In the
future, bake the substrate at about 250 degrees for 20 minutes to make sure
everything is dead that was once living inside it. You should also soak the
snake very, very well to assure that all mite eggs are also gone. There are also
simple mite-ridding solutions at most pet supply stores that work pretty well. A
good soak, change and fixing of the substrate, and deep clean of the tank and
all objects inside should usually do the trick, though.
Why does my Boa soak in his/her water dish all the time?
It can mean a few things. Boas traditionally like water if they feel safe in it.
Sometimes they soak just because it feels good, or they are used to it.
However, sometimes this indicates a problem. Closely verify that he/she does not
have mites and make sure your temperatures are not too hot. If the tank is ever
above 90 on the warm side and 82 on the cool side, lower the temperatures. The
warm side should be 86-88, the cool side 77-79.
Consult the previous sub-section for information on mites.
My Boa seems stressed. How can I fix this?
Take out anything they might not like. Some Boas also don't like direct light.
If you have anything vibrating the tank, or if you don't have hides, don't
supply fresh water, don't use a day/night cycle for light and heating, or don't
have ALL of the proper elements to a snake's enclosure, this could cause stress.
Read up on this caresheet about housing and assure that you are doing everything
correctly.
Also, your Boa can be stressed during shed or while digesting a meal. You should
always leave your Boa alone during this time.
If your Boa is still stressed after this, leave it alone for a few days and see
if things fix themselves. If not, consult a vet or other knowledgeable keeper.
Make sure to take good pictures and descriptions of your environment to inform
others and see if they can tell what is going wrong.
It looks like my Boa got burned by something. What could
have caused this?
You have a bad heating element somewhere. A snake can get burned by anything
that is too hot and exposed to them, and won't notice occasionally, as they are
cold-blooded.
IF YOU HAVE A HEAT ROCK, REMOVE IT IMMEDIATELY.
Burn Mark
If your Boa has a minor burn, treat it with some Neosporin or other antibiotic
cream. Most human healing aides will work well on reptiles. If the burn is very
serious and has more effect on the snake than just burnt skin, consult your vet
immediately.
My Boa got cut by something! What can I do to help
him/her!?
Remove whatever might have cut him/her. Treat the wound with Neosporin or any
other antibiotic cream. If it's more serious than just a skin cut, take him/her
to the vet immediately!
My Boa has snot or bubbles coming out of its nose... what
is going on!?
These are signs of a respiratory infection, which is similar to a severe cold,
bronchitis, or pneumonia in humans.
An easy way to assure it's taken care of is to raise the temperatures in the
tank by 2 or 3 degrees, and lowering the humidity to around 30%. If your snake
doesn't improve in a few days, take it to your vet.
I can hear my Boa wheezing or whistling when he/she
breathes. What does this mean?
This is also a sign of a respiratory infection.
My Boa has a weird scar or scratch on his/her nose from
rubbing against something... What caused this and how can I fix it?
A lot of times, Boas will rub their noses on a screen surface or some other
rough object and might cause an injury.
Wound from rubbing nose on a rough surface
If your Boa does have this, remove whatever might have caused it (screens, rough
objects...). Treat the wound with Neosporin or other antibiotic cream.
My Boa has red spots that look like wounds or bruises on
his/her stomach. What is this?
This is quite possibly scale rot. This happens when your Boa is sitting on
something that is too moist and it causes their belly scales to mold. If your
humidity is higher than 65%, lower it to below that and above 50%. Also, if you
can feel moisture on the ground, find a way to get rid of it and the bedding,
and get everything corrected. Consult your vet for treatment.
My Boa looks like it has some kind of infection or
swelling, or lots of mucus or pus/bacteria in its mouth. Is this bad?
Mouth Infection
YES, it is very bad. This is very often mouth rot or some other type of
infection. It's occasionally caused by not having fresh water or getting some
kind of infection lodged into their gums or teeth.
Consult your vet right away for treatment. DO NOT TRY FEEDING WHILE YOUR BOA IS
IN THIS CONDITION UNLESS YOUR VET INSTRUCTS YOU TO.
My Boa has a weird lump on its body or head. What is this?
This is most likely an infection from a rat or parasite bite.
Lump from rat bite infection
Sometimes if it's swelling down by the vent or another part of the body, it
could possibly be some kind of deposit or other mechanical problem (tumors..
etc.)
Have this inspected by your vet immediately. It's very possible that they will
try to drain the wound, so you need to be sure that you have plenty of time and
money always saved up for situations like this!
My Boa looks like it's constantly losing its balance, even
when just sitting on the ground. What is going on?
There's a good chance your Boa has IBD, or Inclusion Body Disease/Disorder.
The symptoms of IBD are star-gazing (or constantly looking at the ceiling, day
and night), and the inability to right itself while sitting on the ground. If
you see a snake with IBD, it should not be able to sit upright if placed on the
ground, or not be able to recover after being placed on the ground, upside-down.
Parts of the body should slouch over or be completely upside down.
Sadly, there is no known cure for IBD, and no known cause for it to occur. The
disease starts to attack the snake's nervous system, to the point where the
snake can no longer control normal bodily functions. It will usually eventually
die of heart failure or other vital organs shutting down without warning.
If you see a snake with IBD, DO NOT TOUCH IT!! This disease has been known to
spread from snake to snake if in contact with one another.
Further research on IBD is being conducted, but it's still in its early stages.
It's extremely fatal and irreversible once it starts. Please do not allow this
disease to spread by keeping snakes by themselves unless they are medically
cleared of all IBD suspicions.
Miscellaneous Frequently Asked Questions
My Boa hides all the time! Why does he/she do this?
Boas need to feel secure at all times. Juveniles or neonates (babies) will
constantly hide just because of instinct (hiding from predators in the wild). If
a Boa is comfortable enough to sit in the open, he/she will do it. It's more
common in adult Boas to sit out or not use hides, but more often than not, they
will hide somewhere.
Why won't my Boa won't eat while I'm looking?
Boas don't have a form of defense if their mouth is full of food. They will only
eat if they feel safe. If your Boa won't eat in front of you, leave the room or
feed them in an enclosed box. Try not to distract a young Boa while it is
feeding, as they are usually more prone to become scared or nervous during the
feeding process with anything moving that could be considered a threat.
Does my Boa ever drink his/her water? It seems like the water never gets much
lower.
Boas are naturally nocturnal. They will usually only drink at night or when they
feel out of danger. It's same principle as only eating when they feel safe, but
they do drink...
Boa Drinking
My Boa is changing colors. Is this normal?
Yes. A Boa's spectrum of colors is very impressive! There's really no confirmed
reason as to why they do it, but the most logical explanation is controlling
their temperature by going dark to absorb heat, and turning lighter to deflect
it.
My Boa looks like he/she is yawning. What is this?
Yawning
Your Boa is either trying to realign their jaw after eating, or they are trying
to pop the dead skin loose from their head so they can start shedding.
Occasionally they will do this if they have some kind of mouth or lung
infection. It's usually normal and nothing to worry about. If your Boa has an
infection of some type, you should see other symptoms other than just yawning.
My Red-Tail Boa is getting aggressive or striking at me! What can I do to calm him/her down?
Make sure you are handling your Boa at least once per week, and keeping the same scent every time you handle him/her. Once they associate your scent and their environment with a feeling of safety they really shouldn't have a reason to be aggressive. If you have the scent of a rat on you, they might mistake you for food.
If you have an aggressive Boa and it strikes at you, don't leave it alone. Take it out and handle it no matter how much it wants to bite you. Give it a sense of security and it will calm down. If you try to take it out and it bites or strikes at you, and you leave it alone, they will still percieve you as a predator and will continue to strike. You need to assure that they have your trust and that they understand that you're not there to hurt them. If they strike at you, take them out of the tank. Eventually after doing this, your Red-Tail Boa will become more friendly and stable with you.
The main thing in this process of calming is remaining patient. Don't get upset! It will eventually calm down.
What are the white things in a snake's feces?
A lot of times, instead of producing urine, they will produce urates. These are
solid, white deposits of waste that often take the place of urine.
Can I walk around in public with my Boa?
You may see people walking around in public view with their Boa or other snake
wrapped around their arm or neck. You should NEVER do this with your Boa. It
causes a sensory panic attack and they quickly become frightened and/or
aggressive in unfamiliar territory. Boas are only a sociable animal if they are
comfortable and trusting of you at all times!
Site Summary and Credits
I'm lazy and I don't think I need to read all of this caresheet. What should
I do?
Well, you should read the entire caresheet. It contains very necessary
information if you do not have knowledge about Boas.
Here is the base information you should always know and remember:
- Find a Reptile or Exotic Animal Vet in your area BEFORE buying a Boa.
- Make sure your tank is ready BEFORE buying a Boa.
- Temperatures: 86-88 warm, 77-79 cool (at night: 81-84 warm, 72-75 cool)
- Humidity: 55-60%
- Make sure you have BOTH a warm side and a cool side.
- Use a day/night light cycle as to provide a naturally cycling environment.
- NEVER use a heat rock to heat the tank.
- Provide at least one hide for your Boa to use regularly.
- DO NOT use Cedar or Pine Bark as substrate. Newspaper, Aspen, Cypress, Paper
Towels and Astroturf are acceptable substrates.
- ALWAYS feed prekilled prey as to avoid risk of infections, injuries and
parasites.
- Feed rats, not mice.
- Only feed ONE appropriately sized food item every 7 days for Boas under 1
year, 10 days for 1-2 year-olds, every 14 days for 2+ year-olds.
- You should not house more than one snake or Boa together, EVER.
- Assure the Boa sheds in one full piece and that the eyecaps are retained with
the dead skin.
- Do not handle your Boa while it's in shed.
- Do not handle your Boa until 48 hours after they've eaten.
- Feeding while in shed is not a good idea.
- Do not take your Boa out in public.
- Work closely with your vet to assure your Boa is always healthy and happy!
If your question was not answered on this website, please send an email to
info@redtailboafaq.com - we're happy to help!
A big thanks to amercnwmn, CruiserMaiden, muzixman, QuenteK25, Heidi and Rex322
from the Redtailboa.net forums, and allowing their pictures to be used to better
the community!
YOU GUYS RULE!!
This site was designed and maintained by:
Research: Brandon Gibson ("unluckyseventeen" on RedTailBoa.net)
Web Design: Adam Hunt ("widemind" on RedTailBoa.net)
info@redtailboafaq.com
